Heard its shit out of season?
Fuck that, 2 days travel for the possibility of a shit wave, no way
Going to head south to El Salvador, then through to Nicaragua, Costa R and
Panama
I forgot my pin, can you send it to me.
Niceness.
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Swell is coming to Puerto in 2 days, got nice waves at the point last
night,4 to 5 ft sets, can you remember, you take off right next to the
rocks, over the rock reef, very fucking hairy, but when you get it, praise the
lord!, think i saw a shark the other day? theres loads of dolphins
around, but this thing? just showed its fin and disappeared? was speaking to a
local, he said the point is known for sightings, makes it all the more
magical, if your going to go might as well be in the ocean.
I´m staying up the beach away from the fools, all good.
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Mate i surfed the point yesterday at about 5 ft, it was going off, got up this mornin at day break, surfed
4 ft beach, it was ok got barrelled, on my way to get some stuff in town, and i
past a spot further down the beach, as i was walking towards the beach,i
started seeing loads of brothers with guns,(Boards) got a bit closer, and its
pumping,6 ft right on the breach, heavy shit, people getting the deepest
barrels.
Peace and love my brother
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Down Mexico way,i think that Oct is the end of the season,so your best heading to Peurto,that place picks up the most of those south swells that will be dyeing off around that time i think?,as soon as the north swells start that should be Oct Nov,i hear that the north coast is better,theres so many spots.
I went to Rio nexpa,pretty cool place,you´ve got a few options there as well,the river mouth,the point,the you got this punchy shore break if you want to risk braking your head??
Got a killa barrel on that shore break.
8 hours up the coast you got Pasculas,when that wave works its so hollow..................
I would say cheak out wet sand or Bouy and see whats going on before you go.
Then book ticket to nearest spot,acapolco is about 15 hours north of peurto,if peurto is working you can fly right into the local airport.
Let me know if you need more info,i know a few more breaks south of Peurto.
Lates
Mate, thanks for your mail, i was just looking at wets and, wandering through
there site, found the GREEN ROOM.
Cheak it out, very sweet.
Check out the swell for the south west coast of mexico, its coming again, sw
swells are starting to push, better direction for puerto, its all about the
waiting, then the waves.
WAITING FOR THE WIND TO BLOW? TELL US ALL THE TIME TO GO!
I think you’ll know that one.
Peace, gotta get my self a bigger board very soon if i want to surf these
waves.